The Rock and bits

Ok tried following the messages on the other forum but the translation was lost on me somehow. Is there still an issue with the new Rock and changing bits during projects and if so how does one go about it the best tried way.

I currently have the Rock installed and even purchased two of the new carving bits from him. First thing I noticed was his carving bits are different in size (length). Have not done any projects yet that needed me to change out yet so have not had to do a change during a project yet. Only used the carving bit so far.

So when it comes time for me to change between the carving bit and say the 60degree Vbit is there anything I need to be concerned with to make sure I install the bit correctly.

Thanks in advance.

Badger,

Sorry can not help you out on this one as I do not have the "rock". I do know they were putting some kind of "stop" on the bits to better judge how far the bit was inserted into the rock. Most were using shrink tubing I believe.

I assume you are talking about carvespot when you refer to the other forum.

I set-up an entire forum for thisa subject under aftermarket options

I just received my new "Rock" and I'm excited to use it. Perhaps less run out, noise and vibration. What was the "stop" ring used, made from ? Will the scanner probe work with the "Rock". Does this seem to be the way to go ?? Thanks for the help, Old Dad.

Brad,

Greetings...

The scanning probe will need to be removed from the bit adapter then it can be used in the rock chuck. The "stop" for the bits is needed for the correct bit length when you are changing bits during a carve. here is some info from the CW forum as per Kenm810

went a little different rout,
I used Nylon compression ferrules and sleeves.
Their very small, snug, extremely strong and light,
a drop of epoxy or super glue hold them in place.
I did try a couple of my 1/8" Precise Carving Bits with 1/4" slevese on them in my new Rock Chuck
and they slipped in easily and fit fine.

The 1/4" ferrules cost me 12 Cents and the 1/2" were 26 Cents each,
so when the 1/2" Rock Chuck becomes available I should be all set.

Hi Guys,
Thanks to Jason for setting up an area specific to the new "Rock Chuck" system.
The question about the bit length is a valid question. If you are carving using multiple tools in the same carving session, you will need the bits to repeat length from the time they are loaded before you start carving, to the point in time for them to be used in the carving. Ultimately i am making a mold to produce small nylon rings that are going to be able to be lightly pressed onto the tools to act as a stop. In the mean time there has been a multitude of ideas on how to do this using other methods.
Heat shrink tubing cut into a sliver, and shrunk down on the shank
Rubber tubing cut into slivers, and glued onto the shank using super glue
Plastic ferules from the plumbing section glued in place
Rubber O rings with a drop of glue on them
Using a plastic shipping tube cut off to 1-1/2 long held up to the face of the chuck (the end of the tubes are inset about 1/8 of an inch which will put the bit sticking out 1-3/

Any of these methods will work

As far as distance out of the Rock Chuck, you want about 1-3/8 from the face of the Rock chuck sticking out. It is not manditory that it is exactly this amount, this is just approx. where the tip of the tools were located using the QC. If you are using a sleeve, you will be about 1-1/8 to the face of the sleeve.

I will try to monitor this forum as much as possible feel free to contact me at the email found in my signature below.

Thanks to everyone for your interest in my products, and your support. I produce everything myself here in the USA, and my personal workmanship goes into each and every item.

Thanks again,

Ron

rjustice wrote:Hi Guys,
Thanks to Jason for setting up an area specific to the new "Rock Chuck" system.
The question about the bit length is a valid question. If you are carving using multiple tools in the same carving session, you will need the bits to repeat length from the time they are loaded before you start carving, to the point in time for them to be used in the carving. Ultimately i am making a mold to produce small nylon rings that are going to be able to be lightly pressed onto the tools to act as a stop. In the mean time there has been a multitude of ideas on how to do this using other methods.
Heat shrink tubing cut into a sliver, and shrunk down on the shank
Rubber tubing cut into slivers, and glued onto the shank using super glue
Plastic ferules from the plumbing section glued in place
Rubber O rings with a drop of glue on them
Using a plastic shipping tube cut off to 1-1/2 long held up to the face of the chuck (the end of the tubes are inset about 1/8 of an inch which will put the bit sticking out 1-3/

Any of these methods will work

As far as distance out of the Rock Chuck, you want about 1-3/8 from the face of the Rock chuck sticking out. It is not manditory that it is exactly this amount, this is just approx. where the tip of the tools were located using the QC. If you are using a sleeve, you will be about 1-1/8 to the face of the sleeve.

I will try to monitor this forum as much as possible feel free to contact me at the email found in my signature below.

Thanks to everyone for your interest in my products, and your support. I produce everything myself here in the USA, and my personal workmanship goes into each and every item.

Thanks again,

Ron

Ron,

Just ordered one of your new Rock Chucks plus associated hardware.

Question. I'm more than just a little confused about the "length of the bit" issue discussed here. Might you have a photo or two that you can share with all of us demonstrating the different types of "length" stops you speak of? Would sincerely appreciate it.

Thank you in advance.

fwharris wrote:Brad,

Greetings...

The scanning probe will need to be removed from the bit adapter then it can be used in the rock chuck. The "stop" for the bits is needed for the correct bit length when you are changing bits during a carve. here is some info from the CW forum as per Kenm810

went a little different rout,
I used Nylon compression ferrules and sleeves.
Their very small, snug, extremely strong and light,
a drop of epoxy or super glue hold them in place.
I did try a couple of my 1/8" Precise Carving Bits with 1/4" slevese on them in my new Rock Chuck
and they slipped in easily and fit fine.

The 1/4" ferrules cost me 12 Cents and the 1/2" were 26 Cents each,
so when the 1/2" Rock Chuck becomes available I should be all set.

FW,

Do you have a photo of this that you can post here? Might help us more "wordly" challenged individuals understand better to "see" it.

Thanks in advance!

I will get something together this evening and post some pictures of different stop ideas...

Thanks for your interest!

Happy Carving,

Ron

ive got rock chucks in both of my machines now.

i used a rubber gromet thingy with a little crazy glue for a depth stop.

i didnt use a stop on my carving bit because it is the last bit in the sequence when using different bits and the first one the machine uses as the carve proceeds. so far no problems with what im doing.

i had some friends over tonight that im doing a fireplace front for. they were here before i installed the rock chucks. first thing out of my friends mouth was " gee your dustcollector is noisy and why is it running if you dont have a carve going?".

well i broke the news to him that the carver was indeed going and he had to walk over and check it out. what a difference a rock chuck makes.

kendall

woodchipsltd wrote:

fwharris wrote:Brad,

Greetings...

The scanning probe will need to be removed from the bit adapter then it can be used in the rock chuck. The "stop" for the bits is needed for the correct bit length when you are changing bits during a carve. here is some info from the CW forum as per Kenm810

went a little different rout,
I used Nylon compression ferrules and sleeves.
Their very small, snug, extremely strong and light,
a drop of epoxy or super glue hold them in place.
I did try a couple of my 1/8" Precise Carving Bits with 1/4" slevese on them in my new Rock Chuck
and they slipped in easily and fit fine.

The 1/4" ferrules cost me 12 Cents and the 1/2" were 26 Cents each,
so when the 1/2" Rock Chuck becomes available I should be all set.

FW,

Do you have a photo of this that you can post here? Might help us more "wordly" challenged individuals understand better to "see" it.

Thanks in advance!

Woodchips,

These are normally used on 1/4" tubing connector fittings.

http://forum.carvewright.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23851&d=1245037039

FW,
THanks for the link to that pic. I was unable to get pics posted last night as my wife "borrowed the camera" and left it at work... hopefully tonight i can get something together.

THanks,

Ron

FW,

Ok, now I see. But to carry this just a little bit further, could you post a photo of one of these ferrels mounted on a bit? Sorry to bother you with this. Blame it on being a "rookie" with this machine.

Here is a couple of pics of the bits with the plastic ferrels installed on the bits.

FW... that will work perfectly. Thanks again for sharing photos.

Ron

Ron,

Thanks,, As you can see I am stealing shamefully from the CW forum...

FW,

As they say, a photo is worth a thousand words! Once again you've come through for us "new guys" in spades! Thank you very much.