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Rock Chuck and original QC removal

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1 Rock Chuck and original QC removal on Fri Jul 10, 2009 4:31 pm

woodchipsltd

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Junior Carvaholic
Junior Carvaholic
One and all,

I thought I'd give everyone on this forum the benefit of some of the issues I've had with this new Rock Chuck, and the removal of the original QC.

First of all, Ron does in fact provide a great after market product for our CarveWright machines. He has been personable and very professional. His advertisements and removal video tutorials are outstanding. But I carried that a little further and read EVERY note in this forum on the Rock Chuck concerning the removal of the original QC before buying and attempting to replace the QC with the new Rock Chuck. I also posted and reviewed comments on the Rock Chuck on the Sawmill Creek forum as well. There were a number of individuals on both forums that stated that heat, in varying degrees, was necessary to remove the original QC. That should have been a clue to me. But.........

Here's the issue. After watching the video and reviewing the various posts, I elected to try to remove the original QC without using heat as Ron did in his video. It didn't work. The first thing to happen was that the square ended original QC removing tool broke. Thankfully there was no damage to the machine and I was able to replace the shaft and continue on with my project carving. Now if I could only find the square ended piece that broke off.

I've again reviewed both the video and the forum posts and I can see, in my case with my machine anyway, where heat is going to have to be applied in order to break loose the original QC fittings. But I'm out the cost of a new QC removal tool from Rock Chuck.

My suggestion to those who have, or will, spend the $181 to purchase one of these new Rock Chucks, is to do some "preventative planning and research" and get a second square ended original QC removal tool when you place your original order for the Rock Chuck. I'm not sure how that's done but I'm sure that Ron will be able to provide you with that information. Unfortunately it costs some additional dollars which I feel should not have been necessary in the first place.

Good luck to everyone with this. Once I get my second removal tool, speak with a few other folks about which way and how to apply the proper amount of heat to loosen the fitting on the original QC, hopefully I'll be able to remove it and find out first hand whether or not this new Rock Chuck does in fact do everything everyone has said it would do.

Sad lol!

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2 Original QC Removal on Fri Jul 10, 2009 6:48 pm

ruggybear


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I have removed several QC's in the past before ordering the Rock Chuck. In every occasion I have used my wife's hair dryer as a heat source to soften up the loctite before applying pressure on the wrenches and square tip removal tool. That is except for the last one when I was ready to install the Rock Chuck. Because I didn't apply heat I also broke off the square end of the removal tool. Yes, I had to order a new one and this time I used the wife's hair dryer again. This time there was no problem.

Therefore, in my experience I would only recommend a hair dryer rather than the so called heat guns that produce way too much heat. Like the old brylcream commercial use to say 'A little dab'll do ya' bounce OPPS I guess I am showing my age with that one.

Regards,

Ken

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3 Rock Chuck and original QC removal tool on Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:42 pm

woodchipsltd

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Junior Carvaholic
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Ken,

Thank you for this info.

At least now I know that I'm not the only one with these issues. Ron also got back to me telling me that he would refund my money if I wanted. No! This is a great product. Quality all around. And I'm really looking forward to the vibration and noise reduction that everyone speaks of. I just messed up and did not heed everyone's advice. No worries. Just wanted to let everyone know that this issue is out there and needs to be dealt with accordingly.

So now, once the new square removal tool gets here, I'm going to borrow my next door neighbors wifes hair dryer and do as you mention. Heat it a little at a time hopefully not to burn any parts that could be burned. If that doesn't work........ well I guess I have no choice but to heat it up a little more somehow.

Will let you know how this turns out.

Thanks again!

Very Happy

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4 Re: Rock Chuck and original QC removal on Fri Jul 10, 2009 8:14 pm

rjustice

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Junior User
I havent met a hairdryer yet that gets hot enough to hurt anything on the spindle, but beware that if you do have one of the stubborn QC's with Red loctite, you will likely have to use a propane torch on a rod like i described in the link here http://www.carvespot.com/forum/read.php?3,440

If you give it a few good jerks (pushing the wrench on the square tool away from you, with the wrench on the top, and standing on the keyboard side) and it doesnt come loose, you need more heat. Once the loctite is softened it will come loose rather easily.

I did mention that the chuck in the video had been removed before, and it was replaced using only a couple drops of Blue loctite. What i am finding on most of the machines is that they were drenched in either blue, yellow or red. (i havent personally seen the yellow before, but it was a bear to get loose as well)

Hope this helps guys.... I wasnt trying to hold back any info, i figured that pretty much anyone in the free world that has a CW machine has had to removed the QC at least once... LOL

Happy Carving,

Ron

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5 Rock Chuck and replacing the original QC on Tue Jul 21, 2009 6:20 pm

woodchipsltd

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Junior Carvaholic
Junior Carvaholic
One and all plus Ron Justice,

Just thought I'd provide a follow up to my last post concerning the issues and replacement of my QC with the Rock Chuck.

First of all, whomever used a hair dryer to apply heat must have gotten very lucky. And as he said, a little dab will do ya! We're all getting on up there in years but I too remember that commercial.

Secondly, I also thought there were only three grades of locktite, red, yellow and blue. My QC had GREEN locktite on it, and that was BEFORE I applied heat, so it did not change colors because of the heat.

Thirdly, I followed Ron's heating directions to the letter plus some. I think I used up an entire roll of aluminum foil and a couple of water soaked towels in the process. But did not burn any belts and or ruin any bearing seals.

Fourth point. I ordered TWO new square removing tools after breaking the first one, and I'm very glad that I did, because I broke one of the two new ones as well. So I'd strongly recommend to anyone making this change to get, at the minimum, two and possibly three of these square removal tools.

OK, now on with the narrative. I must have watched Ron's video a couple of hundred times and still made some silly mistakes. I did in fact remove the plastic cover from the CW, but I did not disconnect the top switch wires, just moved the cover to the back and supported it so that there was no strain on the wires, and it was out of the way of the flame pattern from my propane torch. Then I placed double and sometimes triple layers of aluminum foil to cover the Z truck track, around the Z truck, around the Y tracks and just about every where else I could think that might be affected by the heat from the propane torch. I followed the 1/2" shaft length and installation to the letter. After the aluminum foil etc, I wrapped the Z truck with a wet towel, put the wrench in place per the video, and started adding heat. The video states that heat should be added for about 2 to 3 minutes or until it glows sort of pinkish. Around plastic and computer parts that scares the hell out of me and I thought I was fearless. That's when I broke the second square removal tool. With one left I removed the foil and towel just to check to see if the heat had caused any damage. It hadn't, so I felt a little bolder. I replaced all of the foil and the towel and the steel rod (yes, I had it mounted in the old tool holder etc as per the video) and begin applying heat again, only this time I applied it for about four minutes. I then let it sit for a minute or two before inserting my last square removal tool and giving it a couple of "loving" taps vice constant torque. Low and behold it began to move!!! Finally I was able to get the original QC off.

The story does not end there. After cleaning the threads and looking at the video again to see if Ron recommended using blue locktite on the new chuck (he doesn't or I didn't see it, again) I went back to my machine and promptly put the Rock Chuck collar on upside down!!! Once I got that turned around, literally, the rest went smoothly without a hitch and I'm now a proud owner/operator of a CW machine with a new Rock Chuck.

Still haven't carved anything with it because I need to visit my local hardware store for some shrink wrap and or some of those nylon plumbing washers to use as stops for the bits.

There you have it. Hope this helps someone out there to keep from reinventing the wheel.

cheers Very Happy

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6 Re: Rock Chuck and original QC removal on Tue Jul 21, 2009 6:39 pm

rjustice

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Thanks for that excellent report of how things went for you... You definitely had one of the tougher ones to get off.. I think the majority are this way... A couple more tidbits of information. I experinented with some clear vinyl tubing that i picked up at the hardware, and if you get 6" lengths of each of the following it works well for stops...

3/8- for your 1/2" shank tools
3/16 - for your 1/4" shank tools
1/16 - for your 1/8" shank tools

Just cut off a sliver about 1/8-3/16 wide, and this allows them to stretch enough to get them on the shank. The narrower that you slice them the easier to get on. I havent got the mold done for my stops yet, but in the meantime this works well.

A couple more tips for new users...
I have stated this a few times but one more doesnt hurt... Please take a minute and be sure to remove any loctite off the shanks of your tools before placing them in the Rock Chuck... The bore is so precise, that it can make the tools feel tight if they have any residue on them. You can use some fine sandpaper... it will easily take the loctite off, but wont touch the carbide as it is extremely hard...
Also, Please face one of the flats on your tools towards the hex in the clamp screw (this is where you insert the "T" handle to tighten and loosen up the bits)... what this will do is ensure that you are clamping on the smooth shank, and NOT in a flat. If you happen to clamp in a flat, it will kick up a burr on the clamp nut and can make the nut not release correctly... Do the same thing on the Rock Sleeves... Point the slit in the sleeve towards the hex in the clamp screw... This will keep the clamp out of the slit, and ensure that you are transferring max holding pressure to your tool bit...

Thanks again to everyone that is using the Rock system!

Happy Carving,

Ron

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7 Thank you.... on Tue Jul 21, 2009 6:53 pm

LittleRedWoodshop

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to Ron for taking the time to keep up with this forum, as well as the others. We appreciate what you do.


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8 Rock Chuck and replacing the original QC on Wed Jul 22, 2009 10:51 pm

woodchipsltd

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Junior Carvaholic
Junior Carvaholic
One and all,

As a final follow up to my original post, I thought I'd jot down a few final comments and thoughts after carving my very first project using my new Rock Chuck.

The moment the CW started up it was QUIET with hardly ANY vibration! Although with the door to my shop closed, I still had to wear ear protection inside my shop. But walking around outside and visiting with my neighbors while the machine was running, the machine was not any louder than a car driving by. Now that is quality! Ron Justice, ya done good!

My only question to Ron, is why haven't you gotten with the CarveWright folks and made them some sort of deal to have your chucks installed at the factory???? Seems there would be a ton of money to be made there. And how about getting your fine product patented or at least trade market?? I'll be glad to write you a glowing endorsement!!

Ok, now on with the story. As usual, even with watching the video and reading all of the written comments that Ron has made I still messed up with my first carve. I thought I had tightened the set screw on the Rock Chuck good enough but........ Yup, about a third of the way through the carve I started to see ridges appearing, deeper and deeper as the carve went on. After I stopped the machine I tightened the set screw again, probably a little more than what Ron recommends in his video, and the carve continued on as smooth as silk.

The only other concern, or issue, that I had with this first carve on the new Rock Chuck was the bit length out of the chuck. Initially I used a block of wood for a depth gauge to set the bits. This carve used the regular 1/16" carve bit and the 1/8" ogee bit. The carve bit I had no problems with. But when the machine asked me for the ogee bit during the last stages of the carve, and I replaced it as asked using my wood depth gauge, the machine told me that it was not set right. It did ask me whether or not I wanted to adjust and or continue, so I pushed the continue button and the carve proceeded along quite nicely and turned out very well.

Now if I could only figure out how to use the Designer Software!

I am extremely happy with the Rock Chuck and would strongly recommend it to anyone who is thinking of and or already has a CW machine. It is one of the best after market items that I've purchased in a very long time! Noise and vibration were cut at least in half from the original QC. Even the flex shaft was steady as a rock. And flex shaft heating? Other than what I consider to be normal, after an hour running, not even a warm spot.

Hope this helps those of you that are still sitting on the fence trying to decide to buy one of these things or not. Do it now! You'll certainly be happy with it.

cheers Very Happy

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